Fanning Island
December 2006

Map of FanningQuote from another webpage: Fanning Island lies 228 nautical miles north of the equator. It is about 153 miles northwest of Christmas, 260 miles a little east of north from Jarvis, 75 miles southeast of Washington Island, 200 miles southeast of Palmyra, and around 1,000 South of Hawaii.

The island is a roughly oval coral atoll, 9.5 nautical miles northwest and southeast, by 6 miles wide. One writer describes it as shaped like a footprint, adding that the people of Manihiki called it Tapuaerangi, "heavenly footprint." (Kiribati people call the island Tabuaeran). The land area is variously given at 13, 15, 17, and 26 square miles, and 8,500 acres. The first and last agree roughly, and seem about correct. The enclosed lagoon has an area of 426 square miles. The deepest water in the lagoon is about 50 feet, only three-quarters of a square mile exceeds 30 feet in depth, and most of it is very shallow.

ship at FanningIf you're on Fanning Island, part of the Republic of Kiribati and officially known as Tabuaeran Island, you arrived by private yacht, sailboat, or, far more likely, NCL's Wind. The Norwegian Wind remains adrift about a mile from Fanning Island because the sea is too deep to anchor and the harbor too shallow (there's a sharp drop-off). Three high-speed, 200-passenger tenders ferry passengers to English Harbor. You'll disembark onto a wooden pier jutting into the clear-turquoise water of a palm-fringed lagoon. Yes, it's picture-perfect, reminiscent of a Robinson Crusoe tale or a "Gilligan's Island" episode.





The island from the boat
We did enter by tender through the channel to English Harbor where NCL has upgraded the pier to handle their tenders and passengers. The atoll island is very flat as you can see from the photo  It is actually several "islands" circling a lagoon with channels between the islets.
The English channel
The channel is like a river with a very strong current because most all the water from the lagoon flows in and out at this channel during tide changes.
Singing greeting
As we walked down the pier, we were greeted by church group singers. They sang all day long even as we left!
By the end they were sitting but still singing! A donation basket is in front for contribution to the church.
The passport stamping hutThe Post Office Hut
As we exited pier, straight ahead is the passport stamp hut (complete with tip jar). Passport stamp is optional.
And right next to it is the Post Office hut. Far on the right is the board showing the stamps available for purchase.

NCL has permission from the elders (basically leases) the area to the right as you exit the pier which extends to the channel (the tip of that part of the island).
They have built a food serving hut, restrooms, and several bar huts. A grass area is lined with picnic tables and has a pavilion for another performing church group. There are three tiny white sand beach areas lined with low webbed chairs and a roped off sea (to keep swimmers out of the boat traffic and away from the channel current) to completes the scene. Oh, also two hammocks and a massage hut. And you can rent bicycles to ride through the village and the island.
Beach chairs
I took only one photo of the NCL area. Here you can get an idea of the white sand beach areas lined with low webbed chairs and you might be able to see the roped swimming area. The water is really warm since its so near the equator. This photo is looking across the channel to another islet. NCL also has permission to use a beach on this island where they have sailboats, paddle boat, and bicycles. It is an extra fee to get ferried to this beach but then my understanding is the use of the activities are free once there.

Turing left from the pier is clearly the local residence area. The bazaar area is set up with sawhorses and boxes where the local people sell their crafts. Mostly things made with shells and some carvings. Mom and I walked farther to the left down the road to the village residence area. The homes and family areas seem to stretch down the island. I admit we didn't walk too far because it is really hot there. There is a cultural village that has just been built but wasn't opened yet when we walked by. I think it opens mid-day.
NCL only stops about twice a month at Fanning Island during the winter months so the local people have to make the most of the tourist dollars coming to the island at those times.

Kids in front of houseMom by palm tree
Mom thought the little girl was cute and the boy ran over to be in the photo. Then he came up with his hand out.
You can see lots of sand and the basic homes. The people seem content in their life.

Taro patchHousing area
I was interested in the work they need to do to dig a taro patch into the sand. Their homes are native materials.
Mom ShoppingMan playing guitar
Beyond the bazaar area, a woman and family have set up their stand. The sarongs look imported but Mom and I each found one.
And the people including children have started to perform for the tourists and their tips. Here an old man plays guitar.

fishing boat
 I was happy to see the native fishing boat knowing that most of the people live from the sea.

Mom, Neil, and I took books, pens and pencils, and basic needs to donate to the kids and school. We let the ship crew take them over so they would go to the correct place for distribution. I don't believe in taking candy to the kids. I did see one woman with balloons which is a cute idea. We have to remember however that litter can become a problem because before Westerners introduced plastics, everything was natural and biodegradable. Local people don't understand that you can't throw plastic on the ground like natural fiber;  plastic doesn't just "go away".

I was able to snorkel in close to the lagoon shore on the second cruise when I was by myself (Neil didn't make it to Fanning Island this trip). Mom had given us the NCL snorkel excursion as a Christmas gift where they take us off shore in a tender to see the beautiful reef, but the sea was so rough that day it had to be canceled. I spent more than an hour investigating the rocks and pilings near shore seeing some species of fish we have in Hawaii but enjoyed seeing many more species we don't have here. Next trip hope to get to the off shore reef with my underwater camera!
Written May 2007
Nan's Home Page
revised 5/20/07