We started out from Hilo in a brand new convertible that had never been driven. We had the top down almost the entire time! We drove south to the Puna district where the rain forest grows out of the lava. At Lava Trees State Park, you can see how hot lava in the past flowed around trees, of course burning down the trees, but leaving  a "tree like structure" of lava with a hole down the center where the tree had been. We walked the pathways to view this amazing sight, now being over grown by new trees coming up through the lava rock. We drove down to the coast through tree canopied roads with Neil sitting high on the back seat like people do in parades - wind flying through his hair. From the book, he had found "natural steam rooms". We parked on a pullout of the road and within a 5 minute walk found "lava rooms" where hot steam is continual coming up. We sat and steamed ourselves in the "beehive" that could hold about 7-8 people, but we had it to ourselves. Locals have put in benches and seats. A real find.

I had made reservations at Amy Gamble Lannan's Bed and Breakfast (808-935-7865). I found it years ago for Dad and Jane. They stayed there twice and now Neil and I have stayed twice. Her home is on the cliffs overlooking Hilo Bay. Our room had two walls of windows all viewing the ocean. We were able to watch both the sun rise and the moon rise. Breakfast is on the lanai overlooking the bay with wonderful stories from 87 year old Amy. We highly recommend it.

On her suggestion of a "local place", we went to a yummy Japanese dinner at Tsunami's. That is where I gave Neil his gift card for another surprise: a 2 hour circle-island tour in a small plane. I knew he had been wanting to go up for a bird's eye view in a small plane around the islands. The next morning we set out for Volcano National Park where we drove all the way down to the ocean and hiked out to the spot that is as near as you can get to the lava flowing into the ocean. Winds from the south kept the steam and gases nicely away from us. We then drove to South Point, the southern most point in Hawaii and in the US. There are structures for launching boats off the cliffs and big metal ladders (the lower sections swinging in open air) to climb down to the water. Neil got me to climb 1/2 way down after he had done it. You can see back under the cliffs where lava tubes have been expanded by the ocean forming a huge cave. The water is so incredibly clear, and we will consider snorkeling another time when surface is calmer and we have masks. We had lunch overlooking the City of Refuge and Capt. Cook's Bay from a restaurant about 2000 feet above. Spectacular!

And now time for Neil's ride. It was a 6 seater Cessna. We had the middle seats, the other couple were split with her in the front right seat, and him getting the whole two back seats (he wasn't that big but he was the biggest person in the group.) First we saw whales right off the Kona coast. The mother was tossing the baby in the air, so the pilot said it was most likely a brand new birth and she was giving him a "jump start." (pun intended!) We proceeded on to the volcano and flew right over where the lava is entering the ocean then up to the Pu'u O'o crater where the lava is "coming to the surface". I was hoping to see boiling lava in the crater but it has mostly crusted over, leaving small "skylights" where you can look down and see the RED hot lava from the air. There is continual thick smoke and steam rising from the crater, making it look like it belongs in a fantasy movie with dragons flying about. Continuing on, we passed Hilo and saw several streams with waterfalls, and on up to the northeast coast with it huge cliffs and deep valleys. Here again were waterfalls but this time some are 3000 feet high. We landed as the sun was setting and we could see isolated rain squalls out at sea with the sun setting behind them.

One of Neil's favorite meals out is New Orleans Shrimp at Bubba Gump's and there was one in Kailua right on the water. We watched the waves pound in as we enjoyed shrimp and then the whole crew sang him happy birthday with a candle in his Key Lime pie (he said Annie's is better.)

The day after his birthday, after a leisurely breakfast, we went to the Tsunami Museum in Hilo which has some interesting displays and photos. We then went to a lava tube that is only 4 miles from downtown Hilo. It was amazing. We ran out of time and my batteries were getting low. We can't wait to go back with new batteries (and me with hiking shoes instead of flip flops) to explore it further. It is in great shape considering it is right outside of town.

Our time was finally up and we had to return our convertible to the airport and take the plane home. This was definitely a weekend to remember!

Written January 2003