I was able to get to 4 of the main dive areas in Fiji. It is "better" diving than Hawaii because they have soft corals and seafans, plus more marine life. I still like my life on land in Maui however and don't see myself moving anytime soon.
Fiji
is an independent country, a member of the British Commonwealth, of over
300 islands: 2 fairly large islands about the size of the big island of
Hawaii and the rest vary from the size of Kauai to as small as a 1 palm
tree island I saw just like you see in the desert island comics. I arrived
in Nadi (pronounced nan-de), the international airport on the main island,
Viti Levu. It's on the west side, the sunny dry side. The town itself is
small and nothing to speak of. I only stayed one night, enough to decide
my next destination. I went to Mana Island in the Mamanuca Group for 3
nights. These islands are west of Nadi, thus fairly sunny and dry, and
it's where many of the major tourist resorts with white sand beaches are
located. Some of the resorts take up an entire small island with names
like Beachcomber Island, Castaway Island, and Treasure Island. Mana has
an upscale resort, and 2 backpacker places. I stayed in a backpacker place.
I would rather spend my money diving than on accommodations. I was able
to dive two days here. 
The
second day was the "shark feed" dive. All the divers lay on the bottom
at 30 feet, then a divemaster comes down with food in box, and starts to
hand feed sharks that swim up. It was mostly white tip reef sharks that
came in (very docile shark) but some large gray reef sharks were circling
on the edge. We then all went over the wall to about 60 feet where there
were lots more grays circling. Very cool. But the best part was as we went
over the wall, a 14-foot Manta Ray come cruising by. It went out and came
back again. I was able to get about 4 feet away. Beautiful, graceful creature
(eats plankton only). It is the first time I have been able to see one
that close; it was FANTASTIC. Made my whole trip.
Next I went to dive Bequ Lagoon
(pronounced Bang-ga), off the Coral Coast (south side) of Viti Levu. Rainy
and rough seas, but one of my best dives there. Rainy season was supposed
to be at and end, but the weather didn't know that, I ran into lots of
rainy days and wind. Of course the south east is the rainy side. 
Next
I stayed in Suva, the main city in Fiji. It is the center of government
and the "cosmopolitan" center. It is where could get my clothes washed
and have pancakes at McDonalds ;-) The day I arrived, the national election
results were being announced. It was interesting over the next month to
try and understand the implications as the new government being established.
12 years ago there was a military coup. An Indian had been elected President;
the Fiji military stepped in "for the Fijian people". (Fiji is primarily
native Fijian people and Indian people making up it's population) I understand
there was an election 6 years ago and the Fijian President was left in
place. But this election, not only was the same Indian President reelected
from 12 years ago, but the current Fiji government received NO elected
seats in Parliament. A real slap in the face. However, it was Fijian caucuses
that helped elect the Indian President, but once in, he did not seem to
be consulting these Fijian groups "enough" in appointing government positions
(like Prime Minister). (This observation is from what I could understand
from the local newspaper). It will be interesting to watch new governments
effectiveness.
I
took a ferry to Taveuni Island, the most well known dive area. Taveuni
is known as the "garden isle". It was very windy and being unable to dive,
I took several hikes into waterfalls and along the coast route past where
the road ends. It has incredible dense brilliant green rain forests; a
stunning area. I stayed there over a week in a tent. Yep, it was a big
2 compartment tent, with mattresses on the ground. Very comfortable. There
were 4 tents, right on the cliffs edge, over looking the ocean. 
The
kitchen area is a bure (a local style, thatch roof building). The table
was on a platform, over a gulch of trees that went down to the waters edge.
It was a wonder place to sit having breakfast or dinner watching the sunset.
I was finally able to dive after 5 days. Did the famous Great White Wall.
Great visibility and impressive wall of white (really light blue) soft
coral at 100 ft. Enter through a coral tube (kind a short cave) and end
going up a tube at the end of the 200 feet drift. Coming up that is a huge
coral head of purple soft coral that was amazing.
The last island I went to was Kadavu,
the farthest south in the group. It is edge by the Great Astrolabe Reef,
supposed to be some of the best diving in Fiji. The problem is being on
the Southeast side where the trade winds and swells come in, you can only
get to the outside of the reef about 20% of the time. And I wasn't able
to hit that 20%. 
I
had some good dives there, but not the brilliant ones I had heard about.
There are basically no roads on this island, so taxis are water taxis!
I stayed on the island of Galoa in a resort that was basically a family
compound. Enjoyed seeing more of the Fijian way of life. The high chief
of Kadavu was staying in the next room because he is a friend of the owners,
so I got to learn more about the history of the islands. Not much "space"
to walk here, so just swam and read. Nice end of my vacation. Had to spend
one more night in Nadi before flying out. I met some great people on the
trip, and it was fun to cross paths again as we all traveled different
places and then often ended up in the same guest house or restaurant in
some town in another part of Fiji. The local people are really friendly.
It was a very comfortable place to travel.
written June 1999
revised 9/17/00